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You really have done your homework! What a fabulous journey, for you and we vicarious travellers! Thank you.
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So back to the main story – our lucky introduction to Chile being the phenomenal, mind-blowing, astonishing splendour of the Atacama Desert.
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It would take many blog postings (and much research on my part) to cover the geological marvel of the Atacama. This area is 250 million years in the making, has survived three mass extinctions, disappearances of massive lakes, bashing of tectonic plates, eruptions that created mountain ranges, and bits of ash and rock that migrated to create the colourful Valle de Arcoiris (Rainbow Valley).
The Atacama Desert has far surpassed our expectations and really set the tone for our time in Chile. We are off to the Lake District in central Chile tomorrow and will travel about there for two weeks.
Laguna Cejar and Piedra are brackish lagoons located about 20 km. from San Pedro. While Cejar loomed in an expanse of salt flat, with just a glimmer of water on the horizon, Piedra was an oasis.
First off, I’m glad you lived to tell this tale after the llama took a liking to you … seriously, I’m glad to hear you weren’t injured. Reading about the Atacama desert was fascinating! I had no idea
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It was perfect in many ways. Our hosts, Juan and Veronica, could not have been more charming and helpful. They live in another house onsite with their two little kids and their dog Pancho.
Free Ways to Increase Blog Traffic We were at least 20 feet away from the llamas and in no way threatening them, but apparently this fellow thought differently. He hissed (not a good sign) and began to trot right toward me. As I backed up,I had exactly enough time to think to myself that this wasn’t going to work out well, but without prior knowledge of what to expect from a llama attack. Will he bite me with those camelid teeth? Knock me down and stomp me?
The last airport we were in, (in Calama, close to the desert), had a big sign about prohibited objects and among the guns, knives and toe clippers were images of batteries of all kinds.
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The park rangers have thoughtfully marked all trails with rock pathways and frequent “No Pasar” signs, so only the most determined rule-breaker could get lost out here.
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This has got to qualify as the world’s most desolate job – hanging out in this little hut on the salt flat to take admission fees from visitors who drop by once every half hour.
DRUM CIRCLE Sign Up Now Limited Slots Available We are now in Valdivia for three days and from here to Puerto Varas. Please let us know if you want us to take photos of any particular places you spent time in.
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You are supposed to start at the coolest one and work your way up, but my Spanish being what it is, I misunderstood.
We never took photos of the corduroy road we had to endure for almost 20 km. one morning on our way to the El Tatio geyser field – a bone-rattling, suspension-shaking trip that was almost enough to make us turn around and go back. The reason for this stretch of road being in this condition is the very high altitude and without the grooves, the early morning ice would make driving too treacherous.
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Jeanne, were you and Bob in Atacama? Since we’ve been in Chile, I’ve been imagining your two fresh Peace Corps faces here, and so much has changed in the country since then, including, hopefully, many of the roads.
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What fascinates me with deserts is how much life they support. They look so empty and yet so much is going on. I love the oasis’ – friends of ours from Arizona pointed out to us that when you see a line of trees and shrubs, that indicates a water source.
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Thanks so much Kath. It was such a surprise to discover this desert, even after we had read so much about it. I think a painter or professional photographer would lose their minds there, with the constantly changing light.
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Seeing the stars was such a treat. The last time we saw a sky like that was probably 20 years ago when we were camping in PEI. The sky was simply COVERED in stars – I still remember that sight.
Absolutely fascinating, beautiful and wondrous ….thank you for the research and insights. I would have loved to witnessed your introduction to the teenaged llama. Your photos are spectacular.
What a beautiful area of this wonderful world we live in. I really enjoy reading your blogs, and seeing the sites, so appreciated, and brings ideas of our future travels!
As for the elevation, you really have to pace yourself. We came from sea level to about 8,000 ft, and our host really helped us by suggesting what order to visit certain sites – to give ourselves a few days before going to 12,000 ft. It worked – I tend to get bouts of breathlessness and a mild headache – Stephen is less bothered.
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Once upon a time, this was a huge lake. As far as the eye can see was once water, and that has been replaced with a salt flat.
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It is six km. out of the town of San Pedro and we thought it might be quite special to enjoy the cool night desert air, listen to the night desert sounds and walk out our front door to watch the night sky.
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Heather we still don’t know what I did to annoy the llama, but he did an abrupt right turn as soon as he saw me. We did wonder what would have happened if I fell – it could have been bad. Anyway, a good story that will have a lot of legs. :>)
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This is the point where I suggest you rent a 4×4 truck, rather than a little Peugeot. We opted for the latter as it was $300 a week, with the 4×4’s running double that. We were never
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Pasar77 jalan Mudah Untuk Mendapatkan Cuan Di Tahun 2023 We read a lot about the incredibly diverse and otherworldly landscapes of Chile’s Atacama Desert – the highest (8200 ft. asl) and driest desert in the world. As well as the bone-dry, seemingly lifeless and barren expanse that represents part of the desert, there are also volcanoes, numerous mountain ranges, geysers, salt flats, sand dunes, lagoons and hot springs.
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Driving, however, is a different challenge. There are a few paved roads through the desert, but most of them are dirt, in varying states of repair. Some are smooth, graded and flat – a pleasure to drive, especially since most of the time you have the road to yourself, with nothing to get in the way of the view.
After reading about the Atacama Desert I’ve got itchy feet . Every bit of you post made me want to be there with those cheeky llamas wearing coloured ribbons in their ears to the young one who charged you . I often dream of dark desert skies full of stars . Im so glad you were able to see such a glorious sight. We just can’t find a place uninterrupted by artificial light to really see the stars . I always learn so much from your blog . It was interesting to read that the Atacama Desert contains a quarter of the world’s lithium. My wheelchair battery has just been upgraded to a lithium battery which is more efficient but more dangerous apparently. The airlines are very leery of lithium batteries as they have been known to catch on fire in the plane’s hold so flying with my new battery has become a nightmare.
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The Valle de Arcoiris (Rainbow Valley) is a collection of multi-coloured rock formations set in a valley of slot canyons.
The park has done a beautiful job of harnessing this water into eight pools, ranging from quite hot to cool-ish. Each pool is distinctive and lush, surrounded by huge boulders and Pampas grass.
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Alright already. You have convinced me. I never thought I would want to visit a desert, being a tree hugger by birth. However your pictures and descriptions have brought it alive. And the comparison to the Galapagos which was perhaps our most exotic travel experience. In your South American travels you have brought back so many good memories. Thank you.
The Valle de Luna is an easy 12 km. drive from town to a wide bowl surrounded by desert dunes, craggy rock formations and hills of the Cordilla de la Sal. We went there our first day as it was lower elevation and we needed to acclimatize. It was an incredibly dramatic introduction.
Lunar-like surfaces and oversized rock formations.
SAMSUNG GALAXY A73 8+256GB, Mobile Phones & Gadgets, Mobile Phones, Android Phones, Samsung on Carousell The Tebinguinche Lagoon was like a large Asian watercolour, and just about as serene to walk along the path, admiring the reflection of the volcanoes.
Where is Californiau0027s $2.04 billion Powerball winner? We had the place to ourselves and the geysers were no less showy.
More cute and cuddly llamas.
The Galapagos and this part of Chili are quite different but the story of the planet they tell, wow (again).
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We also had the privilege of walking out to the yard later in the evening or first thing in the morning to see the stars. They were incredible in their milky brilliance; billions of stars twinkling in a pitch black sky. Apparently the best time to see the night sky is during the crisp cool months of July and August; this time of year the sky is often obscured by cloud. (No great photos to show you, unfortunately.)
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We began at the hottest pool – a soul-satisfying soak in rich mineral water with the added bonus of taking a turn at the waterfall.
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Did you cook eggs in the geysers?
Mariposas en el estómago o ansiedad? This flamingo lives in another part of the desert, in a marsh, sharing its space with other flamingos and vicuna.
Tu hijo se distrae fácilmente? Puede estar pasando mucho tiempo frente al celular. The El Tatio geyser is one of the Atacama Desert’s main attractions. They are the third largest geyser field in the world and the largest in the southern hemisphere, and at 4320 m. above sea level, you need to have your altitude lungs in place.
It didn’t change my affection for these funny characters and we’ve seen numerous llamas and vicunas since. This handsome fellow was part of a domesticated herd: they all had festive ribbons attached to their ears. We just kept our distance and stayed safely in the car.
Pippa – so good to hear from you. We were wondering what you and Penny were up to – it is hard to keep track!
A River Enchanted (Elements of Cadence, #1) by Rebecca Ross Well, what do you know. The roads haven’t changed much since we traveled on them in colectivos back in 1970😚. We were more on a drive through, though. Your photos are wonderful and made me wish we had seen more. Your llama story made me chuckle as we had spitting llamas in our encounters.
in a desert – too hot, too little water, and a sense of peril if you lose your way or run out of gas, but I love visiting them. The desert does know how to put on an exciting show.
In addition to the geological features of the Atacama Desert to explore, I was equally curious about seeing that most South American creature, the llama, in its natural habitat.
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Marvellous photos – am loving experiencing your trip second-hand. The Atacama Desert is incredibly beautiful. Thank you for sharing your travels!
Toolkit: What is it & How to Create The Perfect One? jDon’t you find that once you start reading up on a place, you notice a theme – most of the travel blogs and travel books follow the same tourist trail, and then you drill it down from there. You and Al must do the same in Portugal – and you’ve covered a lot of ground. We have tons of questions for when we see you again.
Just a few kilometres away, we visited the Ojos del Salar and Tebingunche Lagoons – neither of them swimmable.
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But there are also the roads that require nerves, stamina and close attention, lest you pop a tire in the middle of nowhere.
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Bam! He crashed right into me and I employed the only weapon on hand – I screamed at the top of my lungs, which stopped him in his tracks. Stephen yelled out, “
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Puerto Varas is where we had to come into town for everything. If you take the road to Ensenada, we’d love any pictures of that area. We lived in a small German built cabin owned by the German owned Hotel Ensenada, which sat almost on the eastern shore of Lago Llanquihue. We’re not sure the hotel is still there. There was not much in the villageaone room school, carabinero post and a post office. Hope you enjoy, the Switzerland of South America”.
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We had just left a most delightful soak in mineral-rich hot springs (more on that in a bit), when we came upon a herd of mountain goats on the side of the road. We pulled over to take photos and soon another car pulled up to admire them. The goats were watchful but mainly uninterested in us.
Juan is a tour guide and Veronica works as a liaison between a Canadian mining company and local indigenous populations in a number of towns in the desert. As Juan pointed out, there is a contradiction there. He works to promote and maintain the natural beauty of the area and his wife is working for a company who wants to tear up part of that same countryside.
Manual Infographic: Types of Jajanan Pasar I. Found a photo taken a the entrance of Hotel Ensenada which was emailed via Google. Don’t know if you get to read email. Hope you get a clear view of Vn Osorno while there.😄
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Miraculously, neither of us lost our cool, but we just ignored them and then proceeded to slooowly climb down.
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We watched these two do their funny little feeding dance on their spindly hinged legs. With head underwater, they would rotate and dig, rotate and dig and eventually come back up for air.
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I am impressed with your ability to deal with the heights. Does it get easier?
Yes. We were in the Atacama, but we did not travel around as you two did. We were in Arica and Antofagasta.
Brings back a lot of nice memories!
” being Stephen doing all the driving, you should know) but we would have been a lot more comfortable in a more road-appropriate vehicle.
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For things we all need – like copper, salt and lithium. Especially lithium – the Atacama desert holds one-quarter of the world’s reserves, and without lithium we have no batteries for our devices. An interesting complicated situation that has no clear right or wrong answer.
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First off, I’m glad you lived to tell this tale after the llama took a liking to you … seriously, I’m relieved to hear you weren’t injured. Reading about the Atacama Desert was fascinating. I had no idea it was so unique; a far cry from my traditional view of deserts. Thanks for enlightening me!
Wow beautiful scenery! Would love to visit there someday. Your blog and pictures are giving me the itch to travel 🙂
In the meantime, I’ll leave you with an image of a vicuna. They say vicunas are shy, but looks can be deceiving. I bet he is resting up after an attack on an innocent, unsuspecting human.
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Yes, but more often we stumble on stuff and read about it afterwards with a whole new ability to absorb the info on itt
Just as cute, but less cuddly – the vicuna. Smaller than the llama and very timid, they were hunted for their very expensive wool, but are now protected and their numbers are growing. They can only be found at high altitudes. We saw this herd on our way back from visiting the El Tatio geysers.
I have to say, in terms of offering up otherworldly landscape, quirky animal life and nature at its most extravagant, the Atacama is giving Galapagos a run for its money.
Wow! And Wow! I am not attracted to deserts but you have enticed me. The difference in environment, flora, fauna, fascinating! Those swimming/floating bits also enticing. 😉😊
Gaming Newsletters You Cannot Miss! (& How to Create Your Own) Juan was invaluable in helping us plan our daily excursions – he was full of insider tips, accurate directions and reassurances about our being able to handle the rough roads with our little rental car.
Three young women had been at the same pinnacle, contorting in every imaginable pose for what seemed like hours, in search of the perfect shot. It was an annoying distraction from the glory of this jaw-dropping view, but what was even more annoying was what followed.
Now that I have put this all down on paper, I think the Atacama Desert and Galapagos Islands are a very close tie. In both cases, you are aware of being in a place that keenly reminds you of the earth’s origins, and how the harsh conditions that exist in both places have created their unique landscapes and inhabitants.
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Advanced Cardiology Consultants and Diagnostics There used to be a thermal bath on the site as well but it is now closed, possibly due to Covid, and has not reopened again.
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Meebook E Reader M6 We met these two burros along the way (pronounced “
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